Introduction
In the depths of the Ecuadorian rainforest grows a nut used to make natural, sustainable buttons—tagua. This simple but remarkable nut forms the bond between nature, the fashion industry, and rural, informal communities. Harvester communities living on the coast of Ecuador collect and sell tagua to other market actors while managing informal settlements (Beez, 2015). The people in these communities, such as those in Matapalo, live in vulnerable conditions despite being key actors in a multimillion-dollar fashion industry (Dirven, 2007). The Matapalo community, for example, is positioned at the lowest end of the tagua value chain and is responsible for the first two stages: harvesting the nut and processing it for transport. However, it is concerning to find that harvesters in Matapalo make only $0 to $4.40 per day, while other market actors make between $8.85 and $11.80 per day on average (Montufar et al., 2022). This plays a large role in the fact that, in many rural areas of Ecuador, where tagua communities live, poverty rates can reach up to 73% (Gobierno Provincial, 2020). This article focuses on the community of Matapalo as a key example and links three central themes to community vulnerability: isolation, harsh living conditions, and indecent working conditions. Even though harvesters play an important role in a key global industry, these themes negatively affect the development of the harvesters' working and living conditions.
Tagua and the Fashion Industry
Tagua, also known as vegetable ivory, is used to make natural, sustainable buttons and is one of the last remaining natural resources in the South American rainforests that can be harvested sustainably. Before it becomes a button, tagua undergoes a series of processes that take it from the poorest parts of Ecuador to the shelves of high-end retail stores all over the world. To this day, Ecuador is responsible for 100% of the world’s exports of tagua (Barford, et al., 1990), making it a critical player in the global push for eco-friendly fashion. The harvesting of tagua generates income not only for harvesters but also for farmers, artisans, transporters, and exporters, which boosts local economies. However, harvesting tagua is challenging as it involves labor-intensive hours of collection, where harvesters are often faced with life-threatening dangers deep in the rainforests. The role of Matapalo in the global fashion industry is indispensable, yet its people face exploitation, poverty, and poor working conditions every day. This leads to a problem of social and economic inequality, which remains a pressing issue that must be addressed.
Inaccessible Information and Isolation
Matapalo is significantly impacted by a lack of communication and innovation due to harsh weather conditions and its surrounding environment. This situation is worsened by a lack of infrastructure, education, and access to basic services (Gobierno Provincial, 2020, p.5), such as cell phone service. Furthermore, comparing different stages in the tagua value chain reveals some concerning income discrepancies. In the earlier stages of the value chain, collectors make $7.50-8.00 per quintal (100kg bag), while intermediaries make $13 per quintal. Due to miscommunication, intermediaries often alter balances to pay harvesters less. During interviews, a harvester in Matapalo named Angel said, "It is good that you visit us because they [intermediaries] don’t tell us real things. Here, as always, we are deceived" (Correa, A., personal communication, February 13, 2023). Another harvester, Gabriel, commented, "We practically have no knowledge. We only know that it [tagua] goes from here to a company in Manta" (Chele, G., personal communication, February 13, 2023). In a focus group, Angel also mentioned, "Here you only live from agriculture of tagua, a little something out there, and nothing more. There is no other job around here" (Correa, A., personal communication, February 13, 2023). Isolation and lack of information create anguish and uncertainty among community members. After all, how can they claim what is rightfully theirs if they do not know what it is worth? Unfortunately, isolation and deception are not where the struggles end for these harvesters.
Working Conditions
Harvesters in Matapalo are also faced with harsh working environments. Poor working conditions have physical and mental impacts, leading to fear, harsh environments, unsafe working conditions, and little protection. The extreme poverty that the Matapalo community faces is associated with conditions that violate the dignity and fundamental freedoms of its people. After extensive research, it was noted that the income the community receives does not, by any means, satisfy their basic needs (Montufar, et al., 2014). Harvesters often work 10 hours without rest and only water, and they don’t know when they will return home. Harvesters walk approximately three hours through the forest to reach the first laden palms. Their wives describe waiting as “scary” and “stressful.” However, harvesters see collecting as a survival obligation. The leader of a community and an active harvester, Jefferson, commented, "That [better health] is something that we have always wanted here. At least to have the antidote [for snake bites], a first aid kit" (Clemente, J., personal communication, February 13, 2023). Many of the comments expressed fear and pain. Harvester Angel explained:"We are very afraid. It’s the worst evil [snakes]. It's ugly because sometimes the animals bite us and we die. Those who carry the wounded see them like I do, suffering, screaming, and a lot of blood comes out, and then the whole body is poisoned, and they die. That is our fear. We are in danger because it could happen at any time" (Correa, A., personal communication, February 13, 2023).
A 54-year-old harvester had even been bitten by a scorpion four times, which left his body numb. Despite the risks, collectors continue their work with little protection. The nearest doctor is 50 minutes away by car—which none of them own. Angel told a story about a man who waited a month to visit the doctor after a bite: "He rotted all over... he no longer had anything, only strings, like a guitar... Only the tendons. Then he had some worms... and then they took him to Guayaquil, and then they cut off his leg" (Correa, A., personal communication, February 13, 2023).
Not only is there an inherent danger to the harvesters in the process, but there is little to no profit in doing so. Collectors climb a mountain three to four days per week to harvest tagua. They must rent mules for $10 a day, even when a quintal of tagua sells for just $8. Therefore, to make a $6 profit daily, collectors must collect at least two quintals daily. However, the numbers don’t add up to profit, considering the average collection over three days is only three quintals. Collectors are far from being compensated fairly, and ultimately, these harsh living conditions—where appropriate health, safety, and working resources are not met—put the community in danger both physically and mentally.
Living Conditions
Residents of Matapalo also face poor living conditions. Matapalo is located one hour from the nearest town and is difficult to reach. People must either walk or drive through a river to enter the community and when the river rises, the path to enter is closed, which isolates the community. This impacts community rule, as members of Matapalo claim to live under informal rules and an informal economy, saying they were ruled by “morality.” Research shows that higher profit and labor ratios per worker are associated with the formalization of the economy (Beez, 2015), but this is not something that Matapalo has. Harvester Jefferson said, "We have to look for people who really help the community" (Clemente, J., personal communication, February 13, 2023), but Manuel, another harvester, said, "We are all individuals, everyone does their thing. There is no rule, there is no formality that you have to follow a process..." (Chele, M., personal communication, February 13, 2023). This leadership struggle has caused disorganization, drastically reducing the number of families in an already small community, as many leave for better jobs in the city.
Nutrition is also a concern. Food and water are scarce. The community acquired a well after the previous one broke due to erosion and poor maintenance. When tagua is not enough to pay for food, people must grow short-cycle crops or fish in the river in hopes of catching shrimp or fish. When asked about their nutrition, Jefferson, the leader, said, "When there is little [profit from tagua], you also have to abstain. There are other diversities to complement daily life… we dedicate ourselves to sowing from short to medium cycles, to survive" (Clemente, J., personal communication, February 13, 2023). When the food is of good quality, they sell it to visitors. The leftover crust they peel from tagua is sometimes made into a sweet, which they later sell. With unstable environmental conditions, nutrition is a constant uncertainty. Community living conditions deprive members of proper homes, relationships, and nutrition.
Conclusion
Upon taking a deeper look at the tagua value chain, it becomes apparent that there is more than meets the eye initially. Even though this nut is a key player in the fashion industry, the process exacerbates the vulnerability of harvester communities through isolation, harsh working scenarios, and difficult living conditions.
Even though this nut is a key player in the fashion industry, the process exacerbates the vulnerability of harvester communities through isolation, harsh working scenarios, and difficult living conditions.
These challenges give other market actors, such as intermediaries, greater power over both the product and the work of the harvesters, which decreases income and safety for Matapalo. So, when you see a shirt perfectly hung in a retail store, you might not even notice the buttons sewn to it, and even if you do, it might be hard to imagine that each of those buttons has its own rich story—a story of sacrifice and hardship that originates in a remote forest in the depths of South America, where people risk their safety to put that button there.
***The methodology used in this study is Value Chain Analysis with an Inclusive Market System Approach (MSA) from the International Labour Organization. It focuses on the development of decent work. Its objective is building an agreement on the systemic constraints that a project would seek to address in order to create more decent work (Ripley, 2021). The information was collected through two focus groups and three interviews with community members.
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